Located in the 13th district, next to Porte d’Italie and the Asian Quarter, the Butte-aux-Cailles is a little paradise of its own. Appreciated by Parisians, but not well-known among tourists, this district feels like a small French village lost in the middle of Paris. The Butte-aux-Cailles is a breath of fresh air that seems so far from and yet is so close to the big city’s frenzy atmosphere.
What to do at the Butte-aux-Cailles
Take a Time Travel in the Rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles
The Butte-aux-Cailles offers its share of calm streets you will enjoy walking along. The neighborhood is mainly articulated around the street of the same name. The “rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles” is a very quiet street, by day, but which livens up, at night, when bars and restaurants open.
For a bit of shopping, two institutions are worth stopping by. La Cave du Moulin Vieux (website in French) sells all kinds of French and foreign wines at all prices. Les Abeilles (the bees) is the only shop, in Paris, specialized, as you would have guessed, in products made with honey and beeswax.
Rue Davil Somewhere in Between the “Petite Alsace” and the “Petite Russie”
The “rue Davil” is very different from the capital’s famous Haussmanian buildings and known, for good reason, as the “Petite Alsace” (small Alsace). The street is a little more than 300 meters long and made of buildings and houses built in an Alsatian style.
Right behind (or more like, right above) the “Petite Alsace” is the “Petite Russie” (small Russia). Little white houses typical from Russia’s countryside look down on the street being located, not on the ground, but on the rooftop of an old Citroën factory.
The “rue Michal” ends with the beautiful Eglise Saint-Anne and its magnificent dome.
An ideal place to take some nice pictures. The inside is just as beautiful with its large stained glasses and its beautiful sculptures.
The Place Paul Verlaine and the Butte-aux-Cailles Swimming Pool
Key venue of the Butte-aux-Cailles, the Place Paul Verlaine is, just like the rest of the district, worthy of a Southern French village. The square opens up to a fountain drawing water from natural sources. You can drink water without any risk.
Located on the square and classified as a historical monument, the Piscine de la Butte-aux-Cailles (website in French) will catch your gaze with its 17 meters arch. Opened in 1922, it’s one of the oldest swimming pools in Paris and is, still now, considered one of the most beautiful swimming pools in Paris.
For 3.50€, you will be able to enjoy its warm waters and its large vaulted ceilings.
The Brassaï Garden
Located between blocks, you will have to climb a stone stairway to reach the Jardin Brassaï.
This garden is the biggest in the district and you will enjoy lying on the grass, in summer, to enjoy peace and quiet, and listen to the birds singing.
Children will also be able to have fun on the colorful playground.
The Rue des Cinq Diamants and its Theater
The “rue des Cinq Diamants” is composed of old buildings from up to the XIXth century. Literally translating as “Five Diamonds Street”, the place is famous for its street art scattered here and all around the Butte. A real open museum.
Once you’re done wandering around, why not enjoy some more culture and go to one of the many concerts, shows and exhibits offered by the Théâtre des Cinq Diamants? The building has 80 seats for what will feel like a private show.
Best restaurants, cafes, and bars in the Butte-aux-Cailles
Chez Gladines – €€
30 rue des Cinq Diamants, 75013 Paris
Chez Gladines will greet you with its street art signed by MissTic and fitting well in the “rue des Cinq Diamants” it’s located on. This restaurant is one of the most popular in the neighborhood and is specialized in Basque cuisine.
Chez Gladines is open for lunch and dinner and offers menus affordable to everyone.
From Monday to Friday: 12PM – 3PM / 7PM – 11:45PM
Saturday and Sunday: 12PM – 4PM / 7PM – 11:45PM
Rates: Specialities between 10 and 20€.
Le Temps des Cerises – € / €€
18/20 rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles, 75013 Paris
Open for lunch and dinner, Le Temps des Cerises is a family restaurant with large big dishes and great Southern European flavors.
The restaurant offers a large variety of meals, menus and wines for everyone’s taste and budget.
Everyday except Sundays: 12PM – 2:30PM / 7PM – 11:30PM
Rates: Menus at 16.50€ for lunches and 26€ for dinners.
More information on Le Temps des Cerises’ website (website in French)
L’Oisive Thé – €€
1 rue Jean-Marie Jégo, 75013 Paris
For a sweeter break, L’Oisive Thé has a big variety of cakes, hot drinks and, of course, teas, from the more traditional to the more exotic ones. You will also get the chance to enjoy a brunch or a full meal at lunchtime.
The institution sells in bulk all the teas it offers and even gives knitting lessons. Find its flowery facade and its colorful terrace at the intersection between Jean-Marie Jégo and Butte-aux-Cailles streets.
From Tuesday to Friday: 12PM – 6PM
Saturday and Sunday: 11M – 16PM
Rates: Teacups starting from 5€ and brunch at 21.50€.
Pâtisserie Laurent Duchêne
2 rue Wurtz, 75013 Paris
It would be a shame to end your visit at the Butte-aux-Cailles without buying some pastry, a macaroon or a piece of chocolate at Laurent Duchêne’s, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (a title given to France’s best chefs and pastry cooks), pastry shop.
It is not possible to eat on-site here, but the institution is the perfect place to stop by and have a snack.
You will, then, be able to resume your trip with a sweet and typically French delicacy.
Opening hours: From Monday to Saturday: 8:30AM – 5PM.
Rates: Pastries between 4 and 15€.
Le Merle Moqueur
11 rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles, 75013 Paris
For a fun evening, welcome to Le Merle Moqueur, a bar with a warm and friendly style.
Enjoy a few drinks while listening to French and international retro music.
It is worth arriving a bit early to look at the mocking bird tagged on the metallic blind.
Opening hours: From Monday to Sunday: 5PM – 2AM.
Rates: 3.50€ for a beer and 4€ for a glass of rum.
Le Sputnik is a bar styled like an English pub.
It is very popular among neighbors and nearby districts’ students.
The walls are decorated with fake Communist propaganda posters and the usual 60s to 80s classics, coming straight from the 60s to 80s.
Football tables and pinball games will liven up your parties with friends or family.
From Monday to Saturday: 2PM – 2AM
Saturday: 4PM – midnight
Rates: 3.50€ for a beer.
More information on Le Sputnik (website in French)
The best hotels to stay in the Butte-aux-Cailles
6 rue de l’Esplanade, 75013 Paris
This three-star hotel is located in the center of the Butte-aux-Cailles, barely two minutes away from the street of the same name.
Enjoy its inner courtyard and its terrace where you will be able to get your breakfast, during summer.
The bedrooms offer a modern and cozy atmosphere. Some of them have their own balcony with a view on the calm streets of the neighborhood.
The hotel also has its own bar where you can come to enjoy a drink and relax.
Rates: Starting from 68€.
Hôtel La Manufacture***
8 rue Philippe Champagne, 75013 Paris
Located between the Latin Quarter and the Butte-aux-Cailles, La Manufacture is an old building from the XIXth century.
The contemporary hall gives access to modern and classy rooms able to receive up to four people.
Some bedrooms also have their own balcony.
Rates: Starting from 65€.
Hôtel Le Vert Galant***
43 rue Croulebarbe, 75013 Paris
For a calm and relaxing trip not far away from the Butte-aux-Cailles, pick Le Vert Galant, a verdant establishment located just five minutes away from the neighborhood.
Its flowery garden has deck chairs available to rest on after a day full of discoveries.
The bedrooms keep up with this natural and peaceful atmosphere with their pastel palette. Some of them even have direct access to the hotel’s garden.
If you’re feeling a little hungry, the Auberge Etchegorry, contiguous to the hotel, will serve you from morning to evening.
The building also offers a private parking lot, something that is always appreciated when visiting Paris.
Rates: Starting from 92€.
51 rue Bobillot, 75013 Paris
The Hôtel Verlaine is located next to the Butte-aux-Cailles and at a five-minutes walk from the subway station Porte d’Italie.
This will allow you to get to the city center without any difficulties, once you are done visiting the Butte.
The hotel is located next to various shops and restaurants.
Its rooms allow for up to three people to stay in them.
Rates: Starting from 119€.
Mona knows Paris like the back of her hand. Its bars, its restaurants and above all, its hotels, whether you want to sleep, eat, party or just take a walk in Paris, Mona knows them (nearly) all. Follow her lead, she will gladly give you all her good tips!